fbpx
    • Spring
      • video

        Finding the Flow from Kansai to Kochi

        Shikoku’s many mountains, valleys and proximity to the ocean has made it a hidden gem for rafting, kayaking and canyoning enthusiasts willing to take a step or two further from the Golden Route of Kyoto and Osaka.

        Solace and Giant Salamanders in Akiota

        Just beyond Hiroshima City is a tranquil outdoor destination home to some of Japan's last remaining oosanshouo, the elusive giant salamander.
        Kyoto Oni Trail Outdoor Japanvideo

        The Oni Trail: Hiking Coastal Kyoto

        The mystical oni is prevalent in Japanese children’s stories, usually as a way to scare kids straight. Adventure Travel Kyoto is shedding a new light on this folklore and developing a new hiking route in the countryside of Kyoto.
    • Summer
      • the nomad pasche family

        The World is Our Playground

        The Pasche family has been cycling and living out of a tent in remote corners of the planet for the past 13 years on four continents spanning 50 countries.
        adventure travel world summit in hokkaido

        Adventure Travel World Summit in Hokkaido

        The ATTA will host their first Adventure Travel World Summit in Asia in Hokkaido, Japan. We caught up with ATTA Director Shannon Stowell to find out more about the adventure travel industry and how it continues to grow and evolve.
        mead brewing in japan

        The Sweet Secrets of Brewing Mead

        Wander into the world of mead brewing and find yourself immersed in a fascinating journey spanning centuries and continents.
        the knights in white lycra

        The Knights in White Lycra

        Each year a group of cyclists head to the deep north towards Tohoku’s vast rice fields and coastal trails to help transform the lives of neglected children.
        sea to table yamagata

        Sea to Table in Yamagata

        An unforgettable way to intimately explore the Shonai Region in Yamagata is a culinary experience bringing bounty of the sea straight to your table.
    • Autumn
    • Winter
      • video

        CAMP3 Clubhouse in Madarao

        Keith Stubbs, a veteran in the snowboard industry, transitioned from rider to coach and instructor trainer for Snowboard Instruction New Zealand. After coaching in various Japanese resorts, he has established a permanent base in Madarao, outlining his plans for the area and future snowboard endeavors.
        shiretoko hokkaido outdoor japan

        New Horizons in Shiretoko

        During another epic powder season, two seasoned winter sports enthusiasts traded their snowboard bags for camera bags and traveled to Eastern Hokkaido to explore the frozen landscape and broaden their winter horizons.
        sayuri matsuhashi double role curling athlete japan outdoor

        Silent Resilience

        Curling athlete Sayuri Matsuhashi’s journey to the top of her sport is an inspiration to deaf athletes and women juggling their roles as mothers while also pursuing their professional dreams.
        ainu tour daniel moore outdoor japan hokkaido

        Heritage Hunting in Hokkaido

        Travelers venturing beyond Hokkaido's popular winter resorts will discover a land with a rich cultural and natural history, a proud indigenous people and a community striving to preserve their heritage.
        shizukuishi skiing snowboarding outdoor japan

        Shizukuishi

        Northern Honshu’s Iwate Prefecture, known for heavy snowfall, features Shizukuishi—a powder-rich resort area with views of Mt. Iwate. Snow enthusiasts seeking lesser-known gems can enjoy exceptional snow quality and uncrowded resorts, including Shizukuishi Ski Resort, Amihari Onsen Ski Resort, and Iwate Kogen Snow Park, offering affordability and traditional hospitality.
    • Near Tokyo
      • getting dirty in japan

        Getting Dirty in Japan

        “Getting Dirty in Japan” is about getting out of your comfort zone and into some exciting outdoor adventures and destinations in Japan.
    • Near Kyoto
    • All Regions
    • Article Map
    • Ocean and Beach
      • getting dirty in japan

        Getting Dirty in Japan

        “Getting Dirty in Japan” is about getting out of your comfort zone and into some exciting outdoor adventures and destinations in Japan.
    • River and Lake
      • ainu tour daniel moore outdoor japan hokkaido

        Heritage Hunting in Hokka...

        Travelers venturing beyond Hokkaido's popular winter resorts will discover a land with a rich cultural and natural history, a proud indigenous people and a community striving to preserve their heritage.
        getting dirty in japan

        Getting Dirty in Japan

        “Getting Dirty in Japan” is about getting out of your comfort zone and into some exciting outdoor adventures and destinations in Japan.
    • Mountain and Land
    • Sky
      • getting dirty in japan

        Getting Dirty in Japan

        “Getting Dirty in Japan” is about getting out of your comfort zone and into some exciting outdoor adventures and destinations in Japan.
    • Snow and Ice
      • video

        CAMP3 Clubhouse in Madarao

        Keith Stubbs, a veteran in the snowboard industry, transitioned from rider to coach and instructor trainer for Snowboard Instruction New Zealand. After coaching in various Japanese resorts, he has established a permanent base in Madarao, outlining his plans for the area and future snowboard endeavors.
        shiretoko hokkaido outdoor japan

        New Horizons in Shiretoko

        During another epic powder season, two seasoned winter sports enthusiasts traded their snowboard bags for camera bags and traveled to Eastern Hokkaido to explore the frozen landscape and broaden their winter horizons.
        sayuri matsuhashi double role curling athlete japan outdoor

        Silent Resilience

        Curling athlete Sayuri Matsuhashi’s journey to the top of her sport is an inspiration to deaf athletes and women juggling their roles as mothers while also pursuing their professional dreams.
        shizukuishi skiing snowboarding outdoor japan

        Shizukuishi

        Northern Honshu’s Iwate Prefecture, known for heavy snowfall, features Shizukuishi—a powder-rich resort area with views of Mt. Iwate. Snow enthusiasts seeking lesser-known gems can enjoy exceptional snow quality and uncrowded resorts, including Shizukuishi Ski Resort, Amihari Onsen Ski Resort, and Iwate Kogen Snow Park, offering affordability and traditional hospitality.
        togari onsen outdoor japan

        Northern Shinshu’s Secret Stash

        A weak yen, revenge travel, and excellent ski conditions have led to high demand, booking out popular resorts like Hakuba and Nozawa Onsen this year. Fortunately, lesser-known gems like Togari Onsen, near Nozawa Onsen and Madarao, offer charming alternatives for powder seekers.
    • Travel
      • video

        CAMP3 Clubhouse in Madarao

        Keith Stubbs, a veteran in the snowboard industry, transitioned from rider to coach and instructor trainer for Snowboard Instruction New Zealand. After coaching in various Japanese resorts, he has established a permanent base in Madarao, outlining his plans for the area and future snowboard endeavors.
        shiretoko hokkaido outdoor japan

        New Horizons in Shiretoko

        During another epic powder season, two seasoned winter sports enthusiasts traded their snowboard bags for camera bags and traveled to Eastern Hokkaido to explore the frozen landscape and broaden their winter horizons.
        sayuri matsuhashi double role curling athlete japan outdoor

        Silent Resilience

        Curling athlete Sayuri Matsuhashi’s journey to the top of her sport is an inspiration to deaf athletes and women juggling their roles as mothers while also pursuing their professional dreams.
        ainu tour daniel moore outdoor japan hokkaido

        Heritage Hunting in Hokkaido

        Travelers venturing beyond Hokkaido's popular winter resorts will discover a land with a rich cultural and natural history, a proud indigenous people and a community striving to preserve their heritage.
        shizukuishi skiing snowboarding outdoor japan

        Shizukuishi

        Northern Honshu’s Iwate Prefecture, known for heavy snowfall, features Shizukuishi—a powder-rich resort area with views of Mt. Iwate. Snow enthusiasts seeking lesser-known gems can enjoy exceptional snow quality and uncrowded resorts, including Shizukuishi Ski Resort, Amihari Onsen Ski Resort, and Iwate Kogen Snow Park, offering affordability and traditional hospitality.
    • Food and Drinks
      • video

        CAMP3 Clubhouse in Madarao

        Keith Stubbs, a veteran in the snowboard industry, transitioned from rider to coach and instructor trainer for Snowboard Instruction New Zealand. After coaching in various Japanese resorts, he has established a permanent base in Madarao, outlining his plans for the area and future snowboard endeavors.
        shiretoko hokkaido outdoor japan

        New Horizons in Shiretoko

        During another epic powder season, two seasoned winter sports enthusiasts traded their snowboard bags for camera bags and traveled to Eastern Hokkaido to explore the frozen landscape and broaden their winter horizons.
        sayuri matsuhashi double role curling athlete japan outdoor

        Silent Resilience

        Curling athlete Sayuri Matsuhashi’s journey to the top of her sport is an inspiration to deaf athletes and women juggling their roles as mothers while also pursuing their professional dreams.
        ainu tour daniel moore outdoor japan hokkaido

        Heritage Hunting in Hokkaido

        Travelers venturing beyond Hokkaido's popular winter resorts will discover a land with a rich cultural and natural history, a proud indigenous people and a community striving to preserve their heritage.
        shizukuishi skiing snowboarding outdoor japan

        Shizukuishi

        Northern Honshu’s Iwate Prefecture, known for heavy snowfall, features Shizukuishi—a powder-rich resort area with views of Mt. Iwate. Snow enthusiasts seeking lesser-known gems can enjoy exceptional snow quality and uncrowded resorts, including Shizukuishi Ski Resort, Amihari Onsen Ski Resort, and Iwate Kogen Snow Park, offering affordability and traditional hospitality.
    • Races and Events
      • sayuri matsuhashi double role curling athlete japan outdoor

        Silent Resilience

        Curling athlete Sayuri Matsuhashi’s journey to the top of her sport is an inspiration to deaf athletes and women juggling their roles as mothers while also pursuing their professional dreams.

        Winter News and Notes

        Check out the latest news and winter events held at ski resorts all over Japan in 2024!
        dd4d brewing

        DD4D Brewing

        In nearly e...

Forgotten Places

It’s silent, but for the crunch of rusted Pachinko balls underfoot. In front of you lies a shattered bowling ball, its marbled green skin split open and showing its ceramic composite layers like the rings of a felled tree. Huddled round a tarred-over concrete pillar, a pile of aerosol cans slowly fade on the dusty oil-stained ground.

Somewhere ahead is the high sweet twittering of larks. You round the corner, and one of them swoops right by your face. You track it round the tumble-down lobby, over the graffiti of a big silver head on the far wall, past the skewed fridge with its doors hanging open, disappearing behind a central pillar where the nest must be.

You look across the car park through the weeds, past the pummeled old white transit van and the rubbled coils of escalator engines and realize you are visible to the outside world where traffic cops wave on cars with their red light-sabers. You drop in behind the central pillar and watch for a while as the larks buzz around you like dancers at a maypole, wrapping you up in their gossamer song.

You’re in a haikyo.

Haikyo is the Japanese word for ruins, for abandonments, for the places that have fallen through the cracks, left by the wayside. Many of them are victims of the economic “bubble,” over-investments from the real estate boom left high and dry when banks called in the loans required to build them. Untouchable toxic assets impossible to sell and too expensive to demolish.

Others are remnants of Japan’s race to industrialization, mountain mines and factories whose chemicals bleached the nearby hillsides, scouring the neighboring towns with acid rain, only closing down when their underground seams gave out or environmental pressure to clean up grew overwhelming.

Exploring such places, known as “haikyo-ing” to a growing number of English-speaking aficionados, as “urban exploring” overseas, is a growing phenomenon in Japan. Look in the photography/weird section of any Japanese bookstore and you’ll likely find whole shelves dedicated to haikyo offering guidance and maps. Some books specialize in abandoned theme parks, some focusing in on dilapidated factories, ruins of war and so on.

During my nearly seven years in Japan I’ve had a passive interest in ruins. My first year here, almost by accident, I explored a fenced-off block of abandoned apartments and an old military base.About two years ago, I decided to get a little more serious.

I did my research, worked through all the available books, using my limited Japanese to decipher what information I could and put together my first expedition. I rented a car with two friends, booked hotels and headed off on long, winding mountain roads into the depths of Gunma and Nagano.

On that first trip we saw the shell of an abandoned theme park, a ghost mining town shrouded in mist, a smashed-up volcano museum swathed in thick snow and a derelict railway tunnel disappearing into darkness. The trip cemented my interest, and I’ve been regularly heading off in search of haikyo ever since.

Why go? What is the appeal of a haikyo?
Perhaps the easiest way to explain why people are drawn to haikyo is to mention movies such as the “Indiana Jones” series and “The Goonies.” These films are about exploring hidden spaces, learning hidden secrets, in tombs and caves and ancient temples filled with booby-traps, sleeping mummies, occult ceremonial art and hidden treasure.

Of course, I don’t expect all of this from exploring haikyo. Though I have discovered cult-like underground vaults, gorgeous secret graffiti art in haunted hospitals, stumbled across mummified animals trapped in futon closets, found coins left in the offertory boxes of forsaken shrines and been spooked by monster-like screeching at night.

This spirit of adventure is a large part. Alpinists find it on their mountains; summit views the reward for hours of hard toil. Haikyo is rarely as physically challenging, though I have had to climb structures, dig into avalanche loam to find the lip of a cave mouth, battle through densely overgrown cliff-side roads and regularly trust my weight to rusted iron stanchions that could give way at any minute.

I’m not trying to compare haikyo to adventure sports such as mountain climbing, whitewater rafting or paragliding. Though it is exciting and it is an adventure seeking out remote places forgotten to most, poking around for clues of their past life, for the treasure trove of memories their walls harbor, seeking out the reasons why they were left to die.

This sense of adventure is not the only draw. There’s also a natural tranquility and beauty about these forgotten places. Shoots and vines creep in through cracked windows, mold grows in the cracked plaster of the bathrooms, trees coil their gnarled roots over floorboards, and leaves reach up to the sky through holes in the roof. This sense of desolation and repopulation, loss and rebirth, is almost spiritual. It’s a timeless theme as natural as the seasons.

I’ve felt it in deserted school houses while looking over the black and white photos of studious children cast aside on piles of musty stacked tatami, while walking through the rotten concrete hallways of long-evacuated mountain-top apartment blocks and while standing atop a mossy water flume slide in the middle of a grand but empty theme park.

This is what has drawn me to dozens of haikyo in Japan, some of which I’ll share with you in coming issues, others you’ll have to discover for yourself.

HAIKYO NOTES
What is haikyo? Haikyo are ruins. The Japanese characters for the word are: 廃墟.The first character 廃 means abandoned. The second character 墟 means ruins.

Where do you find haikyo? Haikyo can be found in cities or out in the Japanese countryside. Just within a 100-kilometer radius of Tokyo, I know of three abandoned hospitals, two or three abandoned theme parks, several train stations, a racecourse grandstand, two U.S. military bases, numerous hotels, love hotels, soaplands, schools, shrines, factories, restaurants, apartments, bowling alleys and museums.

Trespassing: It is important to note going to haikyo is technically trespassing. Someone always owns the land, whether they go to lengths to surround it by fencing and, strictly speaking, prosecution for such an offense is possible. Although I report on haikyo, I am in no way suggesting or advocating people visit haikyo. However, there are numerous haikyo books, TV shows and Websites out there, if you are interested in delving further into the world of haikyo.

Danger: Simply, haikyo can be dangerous. Accidents happen, and exploring a haikyo just increases your chances. If you’re in a remote area, there is little chance of mobile phone reception or of someone stumbling upon you while you lie in the rubble of a collapsed building. It’s essential to keep your wits about you, to check everything you plan to walk on, to carry a flashlight, to let someone know where you are going and, of course, not to go alone. 

[novo-map id=2 individual=”yes”]

Outdoor Japan logo tree

Related

Latest posts

CAMP3 Clubhouse in Madara...

Keith Stubbs, a veteran in the snowboard industry, transitioned from rider to coach and instructor trainer for Snowboard Instruction New Zealand. After coaching in various Japanese resorts, he has established a permanent base in Madarao, outlining his plans for the area and future snowboard endeavors.

New Horizons in Shiretoko...

During another epic powder season, two seasoned winter sports enthusiasts traded their snowboard bags for camera bags and traveled to Eastern Hokkaido to explore the frozen landscape and broaden their winter horizons.

Silent Resilience

Curling athlete Sayuri Matsuhashi’s journey to the top of her sport is an inspiration to deaf athletes and women juggling their roles as mothers while also pursuing their professional dreams.

Categories