Mt. Iwaki is often called “Tsugaru Fuji.” In the past, people from villages would make pilgrimages in groups to the shrine at the top and worship the holy sunrise. Iwaki-san stands out clearly on her own as we drive; the view of the dark gray mountain against the light blue sky and ripe yellow rice fields stops our conversation. We are quiet until we get to a fork in the road.

“To your left is Hirosaki Castle, to the right is the way to Iwaki-san. Please make your choice.”
At Iwaki Shrine, the point where the trail to Iwaki-san begins, I adjust my daypack as I munch on a plum onigiri and leave my heavy load in a nearby ryokan.

The trees lining the trail to the mountains still have their leaves, green and vibrant. There was little trail traffic, and I'm told a driving path to the ropeway takes you almost to the top of Iwaki-san and is a popular alternative to hiking the full route.

About an hour into the woods, I am breaking a sweat as I move quickly with my light pack, happy about the fine weather. I am belting out the chorus of my favorite Jewel song and am speechless when I turn a corner and am face to face with an older Japanese man.

“Ha, ha, ha!” He roars out laughing. Embarrassed, I smile and manage to squeak out a “Konnichiwa.”

“Ha ha ha!” he continues. His laughter is contagious, and I can’t help but join him. I continue on my way and come to a steep rocky area where fresh water is flowing.

The water is gorgeous, and I drink my fill using my hands, too lazy to open my pack and refill my Nalgene bottle. My hands are tingling from the cold, but I feel refreshed, ready for the views from Iwaki-san.

When the path forks, I’m suddenly in the midst of a parade. Where did all these people come from? It’s a senior citizen’s tour coming from the gondola. I am greeted with friendly “hellos” and “Yoku gambatta ne.”

Hurriedly, I make my way up to the top, eager to get away from the crowd. In a few minutes, I am sitting on a rock at the top of Iwaki-san, quiet, entranced with the shades of blue, gray and green of the surrounding ranges.

MOUNTAIN STATS
Mountain: Iwaki-san
Difficulty Level: 2 out of 5
Location: Aomori Prefecture
Peak: 1,625 meters
Duration: 1-day hike
When to go: July to October
How to get there: From Tokyo, take a Shinkansen to Morioka. From there, transfer to JR Tokyu to Aomori and then transfer to Hirosaki. A short bus ride will take you to Iwaki Shrine trailhead.
Getting There: Tokyo Hachinohe Hirosaki Iwaki Shrine Trailhead
(3 hrs.  ¥15,350)  (1 hr. 30 mins.  ¥4,020)  (35 mins. ¥620)

TRAIL TIPS
Things to bring: Map, camera, sunscreen, water, camera, gloves, sunglasses, warm hat, food supplies, rain gear, water bottle.
Things to do: Make sure you get there a day early to check out Hirosaki Castle and the surrounding park area. You can stay cheaply at the Hirosaki Grand Hotel, only a 15-minute walk from Hirosaki Station. After the hike, Hyakuzawa Onsen is a good place for a soak. And don’t forget to eat some Aomori apples; some say they are the best in the world.

Contact Information
Hirosaki Transportation Center: (0172) 29-2222
Hirosaki Bus Service: (0172) 32-2241
Iwaki Tourism Bureau:  (0172) 82-3111
Hirosaki Town Information: http://hometown.infocreate.co.jp/en/tohoku/hirosaki/hirosa-e.html
Lodging: Hirosaki Grand Hotel (0172) 32-1515
www.ehotel.co.jp/hotels/hirosaki/english/index.html

Recommended Hiking Schedule
Day One:  6 hrs, 20 mins.