Home  >  Magazine  >  Issue 20 : Jan/Feb 2008  > Columns  >  Trail Recipes  >  Tsukudani-style Mushrooms

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Trail Recipes

By Akira Suzuki

Tsukudani-style Mushrooms

2008
ISSUE
20

INGREDIENTS

Maitake, Shimeji and other varieties of mushroom
Soy sauce
Sugar
Sweet sake
White sesame seeds


Preserving foods by boiling them in soy sauce and sugar is called tsukudani. From fish and meat to vegetables, this process works for almost anything. Today we’ll showcase tsukudani-style mushrooms.
Tsukudajima was an area in Edo (now Tokyo) where small fish and shellfish were easy to get, and the locals were particularly fond of using the tsukudani method to preserve them. The taste and storability became quite popular, and the kanji for ni (to boil) was added to tsukuda to reflect the history of the dish. Tsukudajima still exists in Tokyo as do a few tsukudani shops where seasonal dishes are still prepared in the traditional way.

1. Mix soy sauce, sugar and sweet sake over heat. Amounts of each can vary; however, I prefer mine a bit sweeter with four tablespoons of sugar and one tablespoon of sweet sake for 200 cc. of soy sauce.

The high amount of salt in soy sauce provides a great preservative, which is why foods are often stored soaked in soy sauce. However, this method makes for limited mobility. Instead, by boiling foods in soy sauce, the salt and soy taste seep deep within, and the addition of sugar adds to the effectiveness of the preservatives.
The finished tsukudani product is a sweet and easy-to-eat food. Although this style of cooking is a good way to deal with leftovers or create a new side dish, in the days before refrigeration tsukudani was a much-prized form of preservation, as sugar was an extremely valued commodity.

2. Add mushrooms and bring to a boil, then lower the heat. Repeat this process until the liquid has boiled off, taking care not to burn the mushrooms. Sprinkle the white sesame on the dish for a nice garnish.


I, like many Japanese men, can make a small portion of tsukudani last over several bowls of steaming white rice and particularly enjoy this traditional delicacy.